Mimosa hostilis (syn. Mimosa tenuiflora) | 'Jurema'

How to Make ‘Tepezcohuite’ Cream with Mimosa hostilis

Given the popularity of the various Mimosa hostilis (syn. Mimosa tenuiflora) bark and seeds that we sell in our store, we thought it was high time we wrote an introductory guide to making the famous Mexican ‘Tepezcohuite’ cream! However, don’t worry if you’re more interested in soap making than cosmetic lotions, as we’ve previously published a guide to making ‘Tepezcohuite’ soap too.

Used in various forms for centuries by many Mexican and South American peoples, ‘Tepezcohuite’ (the Mexican name for Mimosa hostilis) bark is believed – although not definitively demonstrated – to possess highly desirable skincare and healing qualities, due to the complex combination and levels of chemicals which it contains.

These chemicals include flavonoids (antioxidants which can help repair skin damage caused by UV radiation and other environmental factors), glucosides (which can improve skin health by acting as cleansers), lipids (which increase skin hydration by boosting the moisture barrier), tannins (believed to soothe skin, reduce inflammation and slow the skin’s aging process) and xylose (which boosts moisture and can enhance skin cell function). Other compounds reported to be present in typical Mimosa hostilis bark include many different alkaloids, arabinose, kukulkanins, lupeol, methoxychalcones, phytosterols, rhamnose and saponins.

Whether your intention is to make a cream, lotion, ointment or salve (why not try making them all – even Hollywood actress Salma Hayek fronts her own ‘Tepezcohuite’ range these days!), the first phase of the process is to extract the Mimosa hostilis root bark in water. The resulting light-yellow liquid can reasonably be expected to have a shelf life of approximately three or four months when properly stored away from light, heat and other oxidising agents; two or three years when mixed with some kind of preservative agent (e.g. phenoxyethanol). This extract contains all the plant’s natural goodness and is quite astringent in its action. Consequently, it’s generally recommended to use no more than five or ten percent of the Mimosa extract when mixing it with other ingredients to make cosmetic or other skincare products.

The recipe given below is for making a skin cream containing roughly ten percent Mimosa hostilis extract, but may be adjusted according to personal preference. When experimenting with the percentage of ‘Tepezcohuite’ (or any other cosmetic ingredient), simply add all of the other ingredients together (a), then divide this by the desired percentage (b) to get the total amount of all the included ingredients (c). Finally, to find out how much of the Mimosa hostilis bark (or other ingredient) you’ll need to add, subtract (a) from (c).

Confused? Here’s an example based on the recipe below. We wanted to make a face cream with ten percent Mimosa content. We added up the weight of all the ingredients except for the Mimosa (135g) and then divided this by ninety percent (150g). It was now easy to figure out the amount of ‘Tepezcohuite’ extract to add – 150g (the total ingredients required) minus 135g (all the ingredients besides the Mimosa) equals 15g (or 15mL – the Mimosa). End of math!

Without any further ado: we suggest you read on if you want to find out how to make your very own Mimosa hostilis ‘Tepezcohuite’ face cream!


How to Make ‘Tepezcohuite’ Face Cream with Mimosa hostilis

The ingredients below will make approximately 150mL of fantastic organic ‘Tepezcohuite’ skin cream (containing ten percent Mimosa hostilis extract). Enjoy creating your own skincare recipes from this great base!

Ingredients:

  • Almond oil (55mL)
  • Beeswax pellets (14g)
  • Coconut oil (50mL)
  • Mimosa hostilis water extract (15mL)
  • Olive oil (13mL)
  • Rosehip seed oil (3mL)

Materials:

  • Glass jar (wide-mouthed)
  • Hob (electric or gas)
  • Pyrex bowl (to fit inside saucepan)
  • Stainless saucepan
  • Spatula (plastic, rubber or silicone)

Method:

  1. Fill a stainless steel saucepan roughly five centimetres deep with water and make a double boiler by placing the Pyrex bowl in the centre.
  2. Carefully add the almond oil, beeswax pellets, coconut oil and rosehip oil to the bowl.
  3. Now using a medium heat, allow all of the ingredients to melt together, stirring frequently with the spatula to help them along.
  4. The ingredients should start to become clearer and less clumpy as they melt. Once the mix is translucent and nicely homogenous in texture, you are ready for the next step.
  5. Stir in the Mimosa extract, allowing a few minutes for its temperature to equalise with that of the previously added ingredients, before removing the bowl from the saucepan.
  6. As the mixture cools to room temperature, use a blender until its creamy and of an evenly consistent texture.
  7. Congratulations, you now have some one hundred percent preservative-free, totally organic and completely homemade ‘Tepezcohuite’ face cream! Transfer it to a wide-mouthed glass jar using the spatula.
  8. Don’t seal the jar yet! Let the cream cool down completely before tightly closing the jar’s lid. Make sure it’s airtight…
  9. Store the cream somewhere dark, dry and cool and it should last for anything up to three or four months (two or three years if you don’t mind adding a preservative), after which a new batch should be made.